Ford Explorer Car Answers
good day I'm new to this site but am verry hopefull.
#1) the problem i'm experiencing is every time I put my 1993 explorer (240, 000 km/150, 000 Mi)in reverse I blow the 15 amp fuse (# 5 on the interior fuse cover, #13 in my haynes maintenance manual) this fuse controls my left and right turn signals as well as the reverse light's and rear window defoger. when i replace the fuse my turn signals and rear window defoger work until i shift transmission to reverse. If I didn't have to back up from time to time there wouldn't be a problem!
I realise there is possibly a short to ground some where in the reverse switch or wiring. I've isolated the reverse lights from this senario by unpluging the reverse lights. this has made no change to my problem. I have a haynes?(I believe, No cover left)maintenance manual that has less than desirable electrical schematics, but it shows several plugs (i think) and a (starter/back up lamp switch)I checked this with a ford parts department and they told me this is a (neutral, start switch) located on the transmission.
My manual shows this as well with the same name as they said. just not sure if were talking about the same part. I've also traced my wiring(removed interior trim) to follow the leads to to under the dash, (didnt see any visual deteration to any wires), I also removed the trim from the stearing collum, don't see the black/pink lead on the collum switch cluster. all sugestions will be greately appreaciated.
#2) For the last couple months or so I've been experiencing some hisitation in acceleration around the 50 mph/80 km zone when switching to O/D "I think" on acceleration, not quite sure how to explain but it makes a "PUK" noise, it may do this two to four times at this range. Lately, I've also been starting to notice this happen "once" from time to time at lower speeds on acceleration suspect fuel pump, filter or pos tranny slipping? fuel pump rebuilt two years ago. original tranny no other tranney problems(Knocking on wood)I have a 98 explorer, 4.0 sohv with 4 speed auto trans, the codes coming off the computer are both 1740 and p0741, and the OD symbol in the dash flashes, what does this mean?
GavinMy ford explorer will acellerate in rpms but not in speed. It does this on and off. O/D light blinks, but if I turn car of and on again it is not blinking. Overall the truck has been running great, thought it was either torque converter or OD unit?how do ichange gas filterMy 1997 Ford Explorer 4.0 Liter V6 SOHC 4x4 Automatic, makes a whirring sound whenever I take my foot off the gas. It also happens sometimes when I switch from Drive to Reverse. The transmission shifts fine, and there are no lights on. It usually happens when the engine is over 2000 RPMs. The faster is gas pedal is un-pressed the louder/faster the sound is. It sounds kind of like a drill.Check engine light goes on/off and engine looses power. No response pushing the pedal until downshift kicks in. Problem occurs after driving for 3-4 hours at highway speeds with transmission downshifting, when going up hills for example. Is okay driving all day when not having to downshift.
The ignition timing seems like it is retarding and advancing incorrectly on its own. Once the problem starts, continues even in stop and go driving. Have to really punch the accelarator to get going. Switching the engine off for about 10 minutes usually corrects the problem.
My service in Mexico is limited. Checked codes but nothing significant (CEL not on at the time). Replaced plugs and wires. Cleaned air filter and MAP. Same problem.when starting car my 4x4 indicator lights blink and
my windows and sunroof won't work. Every now and then
this doesn't happen. Also, my car won't shift out of third gear. I took it trans shop and they said all my gears were fine it must be something electrical.Sometime my o/d light flashes.I was driving this morning and everything was fine then the check gage light came on and then the service engine light came on and the vehicle did not want to accelerate and the RPM'would not not go past 2. After a little bit it will kick in but if I have to stop it starts all over again and the car does not move fast.I have a 1992 ford explorer and the transmission slips in the morning untell you excelerate the engin and then it slams into gear.once this is done its fine unless you let it sit several hours than you have to do it all over again.It seems to be getting worse whats causeing thisHow do you replace the right rear spark plug, replacing all plugs right rear looks like a problem. 88, 000 milesMy 1997 Explorer V8 AWD (88, 000 miles) is making very strange creaking/snapping/popping sound at vey low (creeping) speeds. It happens forward or reverse, but stops if you put the transmission in Neutral while still moving. At first I thought it was a front wheel bearing but it sounds like it's coming from the transmission/transfer case...no one can seem to pinpoint. Any ideas?My brake lights are suddenly out... all bulbs are fine..I have checked all fuses...all is good. All other lighting, etc. is working problem free.
I'm assuming this may be a wiring problem, but don't know where to begin checking or how to repair.
Any help would be of great assistanceI recently bought a 92 Explorer Sport. This has happened twice: when starting, the dash lights will come on like normal, and then everything dies - no dome lights, no door locks, no windows, etc. I wait 2-3 minutes, there's a click from under the hood somewhere, and then it will start.
Then, when driving one morning, the AC shut off, the radio went out, and a little farther down the road the Explorer died. This time, all power was out again for a few minutes. Then the door locks, windows, dome lights, etc, started working, but the battery didn't have enough power to turn the starter over. It starts with a jump, but won't keep running. So now it seems that not only did my battery die suddenly, but the alternator isn't working.
Could the symptoms in the first paragraph be due to the alternator dying?? What would cause the symptons in the first paragraph?
Thanks.The problem is that when I get ready to start the car, I turn the ignition key to the on position, battery light comes on but there's no check engine light which means I don't hear the fuel pump whining which as Iíve come to expect next, turning the key further to crank the engine fails to start the car. The engine turns over but never fires, no fuel??.
Have been to both my regular service shop and the dealerís and have had mixed results, replaced fuel pump a couple of times but the problem returns maybe a few months or years later. The last time was 1 month ago where engine diagnostics indicated a faulty ignition coil, it was replaced but the problem has returned.
The problem is not always permanent, sometimes I can return to the car after some time (20, 30min) and the check engine light comes on and it fires up on the first crank, sometimes an hour may pass. It can happen in the morning the first time starting, after running the car then turn off and immediately try to restart or after being at work all day. So the engine can either be cold or warm.the door lock on the liftgate not working properly. The glass will not lock and the main liftgate will not unlock. I can hold down the unlock button to open the liftgate but it locks when released. key will not do anything different. will not lock glass or unlock gate. (unless I hold the key in the unlock position) replaced actuator and the lift gate would unlock 35% of the time, the other times you could feel the handle slip away when opening then the handle would move freely (lock position?) the new actuator is now malfunctioning and making noise. so now I have to replace that again and still not fix the problem. I can also pull on the rod to unlock the gate. I can't lock the glass no matter what I do.
This problem occurred at the same time, so I would asume it's the same part causing the problem.
any Idea what would cause this.I had talk to len i beleave on a coolent problum,
now i have number 5 cylinder burning oil on a reman
engine. How can i go about finding out why. I put
140 miles on engine and is down 1 qt, the plug is black.As the engine gets hotter the voltmeter needle drops lower on the scale. The oil pressure gauge goes up on the scale. Later as the ambient temperature and the engine temperature gets cooler, the voltmeter goes back up and the oil pressure pointer goes down. Also when everything heats up under the hood, my ABS light goes on either as I shift into gear or I drive for just a few feet. I am suspecting that my voltage regulator may be the cause. I have cleaned the only 2 ground connections that I can find at the firewall and the inner fender apron.The transmission will over heat and boil transmission fluid out.
The engine does not show to be over heating.It has tow package with transmission cooler. The transmission does not over heat on short trips but on trips over sixty miles it will over heat.
Thanks for any ideasThe battery charge drops to about 9 when I brake, but then jumps back to normal when I give it gas. Today it failed for the first time while shifting. I had to give it a lot of gas to keep it going. what's going on, and can I fix it myself?My explorer has trouble shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear only after about a half an hour of driving.
The transmission will rev higher than normal, over 3000 rpm and then I have to back off of the accelerator to get it to shift.
Any ideas??Hello, I have a blower motor that has a mind of its own. When the switch is ON, the blower comes on intermittantly, independantly of any heater/air conditioner setting. Might come on for one second, or several minutes. Might stay off for several minutes. Seems to do it less when the engine is warm. Recently put in a new fan speed switch, but that did not fix it. Fans speeds work ok when fan is working. NelsonWhile driving the Explorer without warning it makes a loud reeving noise that last anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes, it happens at different speeds, any ideas?
Thanks!When i am driving a long distance, I can see smoke and smell what seems like rubber burning. When i inspect under the hood after stopping, i can find nothing burning. Only when driving long distances does this happen. When i drive in town, everything seems fine.When I turn off the key, my running lights remain on. Both front and rear. Sometimes the interior lights remain on. Sometimes the alarm system goes off as I peacefully slumber. Fuses are okay in fuse panel and the power distribution box- I am confused. Being female and blonde doesn't help much in this situation- any suggestions?My 1995 ford explorer EB heater blower motor stays on when I shut off the climate controle and continues to run when my ignition is off. I took out the blower relay fuse for now so the battery don't die. Any ideas?When I try to put the vehivle into 4 LOW it won't go and then flashes the 4WD and 4LOW light on the dash simotaniously 6 times and sometimes they only flash 3 times.i installed a throttle body spacer, now the idle runs up and down.should i disconnect the throttle position sensor and the neg terminal and reset the computer.should that get the fuel and air mix right?I have had a vibration for several years and nobody can tell me what is wrong.. The vibration is worse driving 50-65 Mph. It is not the tires/wheels, breaks, u-joints or axles. I have either had them replaced or looked at. The Ford dealers in my area can not even tell what is wrong. This car is becoming the money pit, please help!
Frustrated Ford owner!Started using oil recently, about 1 quart in 1000 miles, but bad pinging on uphill started same time as oil consumption. No obvious oil burning or leaks.Now the weather is cold here and the Explorer is having trouble starting with temperatures under 30 degrees. i have a car starter for it and the car will start for about 30-45 seconds and run at about 2000rpm then hover around 500 rpm then stall out. even when i start it i need to feather the gas pedal so it warms up a lil bit. I have used Heet dry gas on 2 tank refills and fuel injector cleaner. I am lost now. I went to Auto Zone and they hooked the comp up and they had a reading of "bank 1 and 2 running lean". I am not sure what that means or i am not sure he had any idea. After the explorer is started and i shut it down then it will start right up without any hesitations til the engine gets cold. Ok thanks for your time and i hope i gave you anough info. thanks again JoePower drivers seat blows fuses randomly. Been to dealer 4 times - they took whole motor/harness/switch assy out - never find a problem. Might work fine for up to 2 weeks. It does NOT fail while in use - this is the weird part - you can replace the fuse and two weeks later it might be blown EVEN IF YOU NEVER USED THE POWER SEAT IN THE MEANTIME! Put ammeter in series - motor is drawing 3A forward/back 6A up/down - seems normal- fuse is 30A.The 4 Wheel Drive High/Low dash lights flash 6 times about every couple of minutes. It sounds like it is trying to engage at times. Around the same time the power locks started not to always work on the front doors and the back windsheild wiper does not come on at all anymore. And could it affect the braking system at all, we have added brake fluid but still are pushing the peddal all the way to the floor.Recently I had a head gasket blow. After the vehicle was fixed and three thermostats later I still have a problem.
1) The heater does not seem to blow as hot anymore.
2) When driving or sitting still the temperature changes from the "O" in NORM to the "A" then goes to completely cold.
3) Whenever number 2 above happens the air blowing from the heater even turns cold.
This continually happens. I returned to the mechanic and he said he could not find any problems. I installed a new radiator prior to the head gasket blowing and have changed the thermostat several times since. He said that I have a good flow and that the engine is at normal operating temperature. If this can be explained I would be greatly appreciative.
ThanksWe are trying to install a new motor in my wife's explorer - the transmission is still in place and I am having trouble getting the motor to fit and line up to the transmission. Will I have to remove the transmission put in the engine and put the transmission back in or is there some sort of "trick" or something obvious I am missing? THANKS!After driving for 3 hours in the desert the check engine light comes on and the car begins to loose power. Turning the AC off and all other ventilation, helps somewhat but doesn't prevent the check engine light to go on. Once before turning the AC off, the car began to shake like crazy, after coming to a stop. I've had a catalytic converter put in, an transmission flush, at which time the following codes came up: #172 EGO not switching lean bank. #173 EGO not switching right bank 1 - #176 EGO not switching lean bank 2, #177 not switching Rich Bank 2, 188 cruise Rich limit, #542 fuel pump ckt, open ECA to Grd. Nobody can figure out what's going on, not even Ford dealers, who want me to bring the car in when it happens, but it only happens after three hours driving.
Please help me figure this out. Thank you so very much!!!!!!!!!Cruise control gradually stopped working. Now light on dash for it doesn't show speed control engaged. Checked all control buttons and circuits, ohmmed wire ribbon around steering wheel hub down to under dash, fuses, servo to throttle cable, all OK. Lights that illuminate the thumb buttons are out. What's next step? Relays? I had a '94 that broke too, but sold it that way. Thankswhen the key first turns there is a noise that is made then the car starts. now the noise is gone and the car will start but will not run. have a feeling it is the fuel pump making the noise but could it be the fuel relay that is not activating the fuel pump? i was 1 mile from home and then car just died while I was driving.All movable joints in my front suspension are making a horrible squeaking noise. The joints are sealed thus they cannot be lubricated; however, the tie-rod ends do have boots but no grease fittings. Is there a way to grease these joints? Should I use a needle to inject grease into the boots?Was on my way to work engine died. There is no fuel presure I replaced the pump and filter checked the relay and the shut off the one under the carpet and still have no presure. Where should I go from here? I am going to the libary to look at repair manuel. ThanksMy son threw a piston rod in his 1999 Explorer (4.0L SOHC). I replace it with a junk yard engine, but after connecting everything correctly (I hope), it will not start... just cranks. I have verified fuel and spark but still no luck. Someone mentioned that when replacing the engine, there is a "code" that needs to be reprogrammed. Does that sound right? or am I missing something else that you can think of? Any help you can give is appreciated. I'm stuck! Thanks.My blower motor works sometime. Intermittent. On and off for no apparent reason. When it works it works good. It seems to happen more when my wife is in the truck. Is it doing this just to aggravate her? Well.... all kidding aside, any ideas? (I'm serious about the wife thing though. Most of the time it works when I'm by myself. The minute she gets in the truck, front or back, it stops working)I just changed bulbs in my instrument panel. The cord for the odometer also came off while getting in the panel. After I got through, I turned the vehicle on and now it is making a noise like an alarm. It will beep 5 sets of 3 times each with couple seconds in between. The beeping is coming from the passenger side under the glove box. What did I do??? Please email me back. Thanks.ok, here it is
I'm getting codes 536 and 538 in running mode and codes 13 and 33 in key on mode.
while driving it really lags in power and the engine temp tends to run towards the hot side.
but sometimes it will just open right up and run normal.
now I know it is either the injectors or the cam sensor.
my question is with these symptoms which sounds like the more likely thing?removed cylinder heads engine burning antifreez found heads cracked replaced heads new heads not used or rebuild. reassembled engine start run engine still have white exhaust smoke and pushes coolent out of radiator not knowing how hot the engine got the first time the owner said replace the block. I then installed a reman short block, makeing sure every thing was assembled correctly, started engine let it run about 30min topping off the radiator the coolent would rise and pour out of the radiator and still having white exhaust smoke witch could be do to the cracked heads. pulling the spark plugs they are black, also removing the upper intake the ports are wet with gas. please help im at a loss here.After reaching approx. 3 MPH and thereafter when you brake, the brake pedal will drop a slight bit. This occurs at about the 3 MPH area coming back down. The pedal will drop about 1/4 in. It also feels like the ABS pulsing begins. Of course at that speed the vehicle is almost stopped. I disconnected the plug to the hydraulic motor and the problem goes away. There are no codes or problem lights.please help-
My 1993 explorer first was bought about 6 months ago. it runs strong and has given me no problem except for the transmission. Shifting from first into second seemed hard for the vehicle on its own. Helping it in with fluctuating the gas would solve the problem. Other times it would work fine. I brought my boat out a few times, it pulled it fine, then once at the end of the season, the tranny slipped and i couldn't pull it up the incline of the boat launch. That was the last time i used my vehicle for boating. Just recently my buddy decided to take my explorer for a joy ride through some dirt roads and i think he was very hard on the transmission. When he returned, the vehicle seem to shift into a forward gear from park, nuetral, or reverse, but would only rev. the car will neither drive forwrd in any other forward gear but will drive in reverse. I am a college student paying my way through the engineering program at umass. it has now become difficult to get to class and at the most crucial time of the semester, i need help. What do you suggest would be my best/cheapest approach. i am mechanically inclined and am thinking about pulling the tranny and pursueing the issue myself, but would like some beginning guidence if possible. i have a chiltons manual, but if it sounds like a certain part of the tranny I could begin with that would be appriciated. Thanksgiving break is coming up and i was hoping to get started soon. thanx, -stuck without my truck in MassI have 98 Explorer xlt 75k miles. A/C blows hot air (ambient temp) on regular a/c and max a/c.
Low pressure side is 35psi. Compressor clutch engages and cuts off in a second or two. Lines from accumulator are all warm. I switched relays 1, 2, 3 around to no effect. Fuses are intact. Any ideas as to cause/fix?It seems my brake lights take turn burning out, however no bulbs have ever been burnt out. After I clean the connectors then the brake lights work for awhile, do you think it is a fuse? They both aren't out at the same time either, they take turns.We have replaced the fuel filter.
WHERE IS THE RESET SWITCH LOCATED?My 1998 ford expolrer XLT V6 4WD 75, 000 miles has an occaisional problem. Has three happened times. Twice this summer. Sometimes It does not start when the engine is hot. Cranks fine fires but fails to run or idle evenly. I Have scan tool but no error code. Leave it for 1hour to cool and it always starts . If you retry after 30 mins still warm will not start. Battery is new. What component(s) could be causing this?I replaced the starter, starter relay (on the fender), checked the remanufactured starter, it works, It's a 5 spd. manual, I can push start the truck, no problems, engine runs fine, so I guess it's in the starting circuit. When starting with the key the solenoid clicks but it doesn't get to the starter, I am going to replace both battery cables. What did I miss?engine makes loud clicking noise when first started then quiets completely within one to two minutes has 56000 miles sounds like liftersOil pressure gage shows no oil pressure, until the engine is hot.The automatic transmission was rebuilt about 25, 000 miles ago. It was functioning OK at first. Now when the transmission is cold it wonít shift out of first gear automatically. If I move the shifter from drive to second gear the car will shift into second, just fine. Move the shifter back to drive and it drops to first gear. To add some strangeness it does not feel like a full first gear. Stepping on the gas feel like first about 30 MPH @ 4, 000 rpm, but when I take my foot off the RPMs drop to idle and there is no pull on the engine. If I place the shifter in first gear the transmission acts like it is in first RPMs and when I take my foot off the gas there is pull on the engine. If I shift to second get the RPMs above 3200 RPMs and shift to drive it will shift to drive most of the time. Only on really cold mornings does this not work. Once the transmission warms up a little bit it does not have any problems. What can I do? Is there a temperature sensor on the transmission?
Thanks JJTransmission won't shift from 1st to 2and unlees I let up off the gas.
Had the codes scanned and came up with Siloid B sticking.
Can I replace this or do i need a Trans shop to do so.I just purchased a 91 explorer XL, auto hubs, electric 4x4 shift, and according to the door panel 373 gears and posi. The Explorer run fine and when I put it in low range, it seems to be in a lower gear. I have 2 questions:
1) I was changing the rear ujoints, while the rear drive line was out, I decided to verify that the 4 wheel drive worked. I placed it in 4x4 and tryed to drive it and nothing happened. No noise or nothing.
Do I have a problem?
2) Also after I replace the u-joints and reinstalled the drive line, rear tires off the ground and in park, I can turn by hand the back tires and they both turn in opposite directions, but the drive line did not turn. Everything seems to work correctly while driving and park works fine even on a hill. Do I have a rear end problem or is that from this type of posi?
JerryI own a 1996 Explorer Sport with a 4.0 liter engine. It has 110k on it. About 18 months ago or 12k the check engine light came on. I had it scanned by a local shop and it read bad oxygen sensors. He said it was best to replace all 3 being it was high mileage. I personally did the work myself and replaced all 3 sensors. Cleared codes and truck ran fine up until 2 weeks ago and the light came on again. Brought it back to my freind and he scanned it again. Reads bad oxygen sensors. What could be causing these codes? If "a" sensor is bad can I isolate the bad sensor out of 3 of them without replacing all 3? I'm pretty handy with a VOM if that helps. By the way, it still performs well even with the lit light.
JamesEngine constantly idles high/low sometimes even cutting off when started. Surgues forward when sitting a signal lights and makes a short poofing sound when cold. Could my fuel pump, injection regulator, and or filter be failing/bad. Have spent so much $$$ with no repair in site. I need help!Driver's side rear brake light and blinker not working. Blinker also not working driver's side front unless done manually. 1994 Ford Explorer Sport. Is it just a bulb replacement and if so, are there any diagrams on how to remove housing? Thanks....92 explorer 4x4 is elect/push button on dash, no lights no engagement . 150, 000 mi./trans rebuilt in august, frezeout plugs/starter/brake lines in june. 4 wheel drive not working. six cyl. thanks for your helpWhen driving at night the headlights go off/on when on for 20-25 minutes, if I use the high beams they go on/off more frequently. If I turn them off for 10 minutes, I get the same result, functioning fine for 20-25 minutes, then off/on. I replaced the headlight switch twice, checked all wiring. It's as if it's overheating a relay or something. Where else do I look?This 94 Explorer is sweet in every way but one. As I'm cruising down the highway, in OD, 60-65MPH, 1500/1700RPM, everything is wonderful. Cruise control is on, all is right with the world. Then.........Hey.......what is THAT! The RPM's jump to 2400/2500, and the volume goes up in the tranny. Not as loud as a kick-down to third, but kind of half way there. First time it happened that's what I thought happened...that it shifted out of OD and into third, but no.......I can manually drop it down to third and that jumps the RPM's up to 3000 or more with the expected increase in sound. This is like it finds something between third and OD. Can't get any pros around here to acknowlege this behavior as something they recognize, just what feels like a standard answer about a range of prices that you know will be the higher, regardless of the problem......anyone out there recognize this as a typical issue or had this happen to them? Please...not frantic about it, but it makes the mileage drop considerably, and I'm worried about it leading to something worse. THanksI've ust replaced the fuel pump, turned the ignition on/off to get fuel to the engine, checked the emergency shut-off button, and used carb cleaner to try and start. It starts, burns the ether, and then just cranks. Any suggestions?I have a 1997 ford explorer and the 4wd went out. It has the factory automatic lock in hubs and i cant figure out what the problem might be. any suggestions?the blower fan keeps running even after the car and system is shut off. the only way to stop it is to unplug the blower fan. we have had a mechanic look at it and he is stumped and said he can not find anything that would cause this. he has checked all the fuses etc. Can you help usmy oil gage will not work when i start up my car in the morning or just when it has been sitting for a while, after driving for about 1 minute it will start up and work fine. i was just wondering if its a fuse or an engine problem.When driving uphill on a warm day lately temp guage goes almost to red but not on red. Also making a rattling noise at the same time going uphill or accelerating. We think maybe thermostate but not sure where it is can u tell me where to find it. Thanks -LeslieMy 1996 Ford Explorer has 161k miles on it, every time I drive it the overdrive off light flashes constantly when I accelerate to 40mph & upward. In addition the automatic tranny gears do not change out as they should, what could be the problem ?engine misses when I drive cruise speed, foot is holding car at steady speed @ about 1500 rpm a steady miss occurs.A low rpm miss. I put new plugs & wires and cleaned injectors. Made it better but did not fix.
ckeck engine light is not on. What should i look for next?
RandyMy Explorer won't start. I started noticing it a week ago where it took 2 or 3 attempts to start. Now, it turns over once or twice (very slowly), then dies and starts making a 'click-click-click' noise. Also, recently when idling, it feels like it's going to stall. Don't know if it's the battery (still has the original) but lights and wipers seemed to be working ok.Every time I start the engine cold for the first five to ten minutes the engine hesitates unless I push the gas hard then it takes off like a bullet. This is very consistent. Never after 5-10 minutes. I've changed the Air filter, spark plugs and wires. The temperature gauge doesn't seem to read accuratley but may not be related. If you have any Ideas they would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.Hello, there, my explorer is V6, Manual Trans, 170K-Kilometers,
It seems in my muffler, always have lot vapor, specially in a humid day.
Is some thing wrong with it? Can i make it better?
I changed my fuel filter already. Seems nothing changed.
Thanks a lotNO Brake Lights and ABS Light is on solid on Dashi have a problem with the power windows and wind shield wipers. the windows did not open at all. the wipers would not go on front windshield or rear. I did hear the power from the rear wipers going.
last week i had the same problem, i left it at the dealer and when he looked at it it worked no problem found.! What should i do? What could it be?
i have 28000 mls on the 1999 sport. help me!hello, thanks for my question! i live in sunny south florida and my 96 explorer is overheating about 5 miles into every trip. i recently put a new thermostat in it and it is holding anti-freeze at normal levels. today it quickly overheated and when i shut the engine off the over flow was boiling over with anti-freeze? the first engine had 300, 000 and 8 months ago i put used motor and used tranny w/41, 000 both coming out of same explorer. i have only had this overheating problem for a month! thanks!I have a 4.0 SOHC ford with no oil pressure, the timing tensioner on the balance shaft broke and I have fixed that, I am hearing an awful noise that I think are oil starved cams or something, I have pulled out the oil pump drive gear and noticed that the intermediate shaft was gummed up as this car has 107, 000 miles on it. I cleaned it up and I know that the pump is working because I put the shaft back in and turned it with a drill and oil shot out the sending unit hole, I still have no oil pressure, and dont know what to look at next, HELP!!!!! a new pair of eyes would be helpful I have worked on this thing for four solid days..... Brooke Frame
Get Answers About Your Ford Explorer my explorer is making a very loud noise and is coming from somewhere around the air intake. i replaced the maf sensor and my truck is still making the noise. when the noise is occuring and the truck is ideling the truck wants to stall and actually has once. what do you think the problem is?O/D light flashing and the car begins to shift hard but when I pull the battery terminal it resets the computer and the O/D light goes out and the car shifts correctly. It appears to me to be a computer problem but is there a seperate computer for the transmission or is there just one that controlls the engine and the transmission. Or could it be a solenoid problem and not the computer.My truck won't start. I was driving and it wanted to stall on me...badly. I got home and looked under the hood, the spark plugs were badly burned through. I replaced them and now my truck won't start at all. What happened???my turn signals are not working. my hazards are working and my brake, tail and front lamps are okay. could it be a fuse? if so what slot is it in? my owners manual only specifies the hazards. i have a 2001 explorer sportrac.When car is parked and door lock/alarm is set, the alarm (cyclical horn application) will go off after a random period of time without any disturbance to the car. All the door switches work (open door indicator works properly).My Ford Explorer will intermittely turn over, but will not start when warm.The failure codes were "KOEO(no run) 335, 539", "KOER(run) 538, 116, 326" and "Memory 332". It has a 5.0 ltr engine, 4WD, and AT.My heater will not blow warm air. I have replaced the thermostat and that did not fix the problem. I have also checked the antifreeze levels. When I turn my heater on, it blows as cold of air as when I have the A/C on. I have not seen any signs of a leaking heater core. Can you think of anything else it could be? Thanks so much!My Explorer has a check engine light come on mementarily when I accelerate at high speeds, go over a hill on the expressway, or have a load on the truck. It almost never does it below 50 mph. I can hear a pinging noise, like a spark knock, and it just doesn't have any power. I have brought it to the dealer and they couldn't get any codes out of the computer. Can a bad catalytic converter cause this, or does it sound like a stretched timing chain?Unable to engage 4 wheel drive. Have had the car a long time...problem existed upon purchse. Auto has 150K miles, engine runs great. Also, radio doesn't work, nor does A/C. I assume that all of thses problems are electrical.I pick up a shuuter/vibration when accelelerting, and when highway speed 60-70 a loud low pitched howl.
had tires ballance they are ok but noise and vibration still thereAfter shutting off fully warmed vehicle, the strong smell of gas fills the garage and house. Local Ford Dealer smells the same thing when they take the car home with them BUT CAN'T FIND SOURCE - EVEN UNDER PRESSURE.New Ford factory remanufactured motor, less than 2 hours on it. Missing on cylinders 4 and 5 per code reader. checked the coils and all measure correctly on the primary and secondary. New plugs and wires. I didn't have a spark tester so I cliped my timing lite on each wire and intermittent indication of spark on cylinders 4 and 5. Under load tends to backfire. I am wondering if it may be the crank position sensor from the old engin. I cant find any information on setting the proper distance (gap) from the index area on the crank balancer.Upon starting the car the 4WD High and 4WD Low lights on the dashboard blink several times and continue to blink intermittently while the car is running. The selector switch is in the AUTO position. The car drives fine and shifts from DRIVE, 1 and 2 with no problems. O/D works fine also. Moving the switch to 4X4 High does not illuminate the light nor does moving the switch to 4X4 Low. There is no transmission engagement either. Switch movement is done in accordance with Ford instructions.Our 93 Explorer 4WD has had a couple of episodes where the oil pressure drops down nearly to zero while we are driving. It also seems to lose a bit of power when this happens. Most of my research seems to indicate that the oil pressure sending unit (?) needs to be replaced. Does this sound like an accurate diagnosis?
I am unable to find the location of this part in the repair manual. Can anyone tell me where it may be located? Is it going to be hard to replace? And is it expensive? I am hoping to get some answers while my husband still has the car in pieces in the driveway! Can someone help me out??This 1998 Ford Explorer with SOHC V-6 engine and automatic trans (5 speed)90K miles, well maintained, bettered the service requirements including synthetic engine oils. Number of recalls including "Reprogramming the OBD". Four times since June I go to start up and it will not start, Turns over fine, plenty of battery power. This week (09 Sep)it took about 20 minutes of cranking, rechecking fuses, fuel shutoff checks etc etc, before it restarted. Then it runs fine until this morning, 11 Sep. I had bought the AutoXray 2000 OBD II disgnostic tool. Plugged it in, ran an initial test (key on engine off) and passed successfully. Went to start the engine to perform the key on engine running tests and it would crank but would not start.
The smell of fuel is noticed at times when attempting these long cranks but none found leaking nor is it noticeable when operating normally. I did install new Boesh Platinum Plugs and wires early this year and K&N filter system. Could this be related? We live in Southern CA. desert, relativly dry climate.When I turn the key the fuse for the fuel pump keeps popping, Ive tried changing the pump relay. I need to know if it is maybe a bad pump or maybe electrical.
DaveWhen you shift auto trans to reverse works OK.
Trans fluid full and no burnt smell
Intermittent problem: delayed shift to Drive but when it does go into drive all will work fine.
then sometimes, and getting worse, the delay takes longer to go into Drive.
This morning I drove around for about 1 hour, tried to turn around, and it shifted to reverse OK, but when I shifted to drive it would not engage....
Now it will not shift into Drive Att all..
what do you think? will a kit to repalce the o rings etc. in the valve body do the trick or is there a solenoid for all forward gear?
I have a 5 speed manual transmission when I go to shift from one gear to another it is very hard, and the gears shift level will just floppy around . I'm trying to find the bolt with a carterpin and 3 washers. the shifter is connected to this part. Please be able to help me. Or do you know where I can get a shifter for this vehicle? The problem is not in the transmission
JeannieBrake Light was coming on and noise/vibration sometimes when braking. Took to shop and had new front brake pads and rotors, including replace wheel seals and re pac wheel bearings. Got vehicle back no longer have the brake light coming on but was having vibrations. Took back to shop and was told that the brake problem had masked that the ABS Module was shot. Told that they couldn't get a replacement (no longer made) and that our brakes system now was like the old standard prior to ABS. Questions...(1) The ABS light still comes on when you start the vehicle is this possible if the ABS module is shot? (2) Is it safe to drive this vehicle with only standard brakes? (still have vibrations and noices sometime when braking but works)(3) Our ABS modules still avaiable for the 93?I have 2 problems... I just bought the truck, so I do not know any of the recent history of the problems I am describing here...
First one: The "Cruise Control" does not function at all. I have read a little about this, and can tell you that the horn functions properly. There seems to be no power at all to the cruise control. Additionally, I've checked all of the fuses, and they are fine (but not relays as I do not know which ones or have a way / know how to test them). Any ideas...?
The second: I have not been able to bet the "Keyless Entry Keypad (or Remote)" to work. The power locks work fine. There does not seem to be any other problems with anything else at all. I'm kind of at a loss as to where to begin, and whether there is some commonality between these two systems. Any ideas...?
Martyunable to get radio to work. radio powers up and looks fine but no sound to speakers. Ran a wire from speaker output directly to speaker and the speaker works. Also noticed 9 wires from back of radio 2 for each speaker plus one extra black wire?My Explorer's coolant system was neglected and within the last 6 months have replaced the thermostat, thermostat housing, all hoses, heater control valve, water pump and radiator cap. The water pump and thermostat were replaced yesterday due to a heavy leak from the water pump and thermostat area. Upon refilling with coolant, it seemed I still had the same leak. I have now realized that it's not coming from either component, but appears to be coming from the engine block itself, although I haven't been able to pinpoint the leak due to parts obstructing my vision. Could it be the "core plugs" or "freeze plugs" that are now leaking? If so, where can I find them?
Any help is greatly appreciated.I turned the cold/warm potentiometer to hot the other day. When I was warm enough I turned it back to cold however hot (I mean HOT) air kept blowing. It continues today. I check the pot with an ohm meter and it seems to be working correctly. Is there a relay this feeds somewhere that may need to be replaced?The OD off light begins to flash on the dash. It is sometimes preceded by a slight slide in shifting. If I turn the auto off for the night and start it in the morning the light still flashes. I then leave for work and drive about 1 mile and the light goes off and the car runs well in OD. The light goes out consistently at the exact location. Could it have to do with a speed sensor? How could I go about repairing? I have an ODBII tester and it reveals no errors.
Thanks for your helpI have a 1992 Ford Explorer Xlt 4.0 engine. When starting the car cold everything seems ok until it starts to warm up. The idle will rise to 1500 and then drop back to 900 and back up again so on. Once the engine is turned off it will not start again . There is a strong smell of fuel like it is flooded . Diagnostic codes were checked and a 26 was found. The MAF and the TPS sensor was replaced but it did not correct the problem. Any help in this problem?Stupid question of the day....My front driver side front fender was hitting and the fender was scraping the wheel when making turns. I tried to straighten out the bumper by using some leverage in the front center and ended up putting a hole in something that leaked air. Can I still drive it, how long or far without causing additional damage? What is the cost to repair it?my explorer has a problem sometimes it would run rough engine light would come on then problem would go away sometimes would'nt come back for a week sometimes in a few hours
Last time this happened could hear an electrical arching near the coil back I could move the harness around and my fuel pump would engage an disengage with the key on than wham I lost all spark
I have changed all plugs and wires being careful to draw a diagram on paper to what was to what and still had no spark changed wiring harness (took care of the arching problem) still no spark have changed coil pack and crankshaft positon sensor and still no spark I am leaning to maybe it could be either the arching toasted my ignition control moduale or that it may have got my PCM I still have lights ect. just cant get a spark
any suggestions what i might wanna look for
Thnks Steve98 Explorer Sport 4.0 has plenty of coolant, and radiator fan is working, but still overheats quickly.I have lost all dash board lights. I have power to and from fuse box, power leaving light switch good, but no power to any of dash lights. Black ground wire in harness has continuity to ground. Headlights where on then blinked when driver's door was shut and then noticed no dash lightsMy console armrest bracket (plastic) has cracked and I either want to replace the bracket or try to repair it with epoxy. Either way, I would like to remove the actual upholstered armrest from the bracket for ease of repair or replacing. I have already removed the armrest/bracket assembly from the console. Any help with removing the bracket from the armrest? It looks like it would be simple, but apparently not simple enough for me. I would appreciate any insight into this. Thanks G. Hart.I have a 1998 Ford Explorer that has begun chugging or stuttering when I am accelerating (not everytime, but quite often). It occasionally does the same sort of thing while I am driving at a continuous speed - generally 30 mph or less. In addition, the "check engine" light is always on. Help!!i have a 1999 ford explorer and when i remote start my car sometimes and then when it is started i unlock it and my driver side window rolls down like an inch. it also does it when i have it remote started and i open the door it will crack open like an inch. if you could answer this it would be greatly appreciated.When under a loan (towing boat or uphill w/ ac on) will 'chug' at 45 + mph. Jerky - jolty. Have replaced computer, MAS, checked sparks and gas flow. All seem fine. ??I have climate controll and it seems to get mixed up on the fan settings. When i have the max air on air comes out the vent ok but when i accelerate it moves to the defrost. When the vent is pushed air becomes hot. When I have the vent/floor it seems ok but not as cool as before this problem started and seems to have some outside air. You can feel the humidity. You had a simular question and indicated it might be a sticky mixing door. How is that repaired if that is what is seems. My mech. said it was the ac control module bu i didn't believe him, this seems to be more machanical where the module is probably all electronic. Thanks!While I am accelerating and driving my RPMs drop down to below 1000. It feels like it's going to stall, but never does. The check engine light never comes on. I had my mechanic run a computer diagnosis and there weren't any codes.
I regularly have my fuel filter and transmission fluid changed. It was almost time, so I went ahead and had that done. While there I also had them clean the fuel injectors. No help. Any suggestions?98 5.0L engine
Check engine been on for months. Local Ford dealer tells me it's the EGR valve. Bought one at local parts store. I can't get break loose the dad-blamed large nut that fastens the tube that connects to the bottom of the old EGR valve. Not much manuvering room down there. Suggestions?
JohnWhat is going on? When driving down road with heater on it smells like the wiring is burning in behind the dash ? Do not see any smoke though. I am very mechanically incline to take out something or relocate problem if possibe. I was wondering if I toke off shield for heater box cover would it help or is the problem behind the radio area. The radio gets awfully HOT at times also.Check engine light comes on after engine warmes up.get codes: 558, EGR Valve Regulator solenoid circuit fault..and code 332, Insufficient EGR flow detected.What to do? Erik.I have tried to start my Explorer on several occasions and it will start but will not stay running unless I hold down the accellerator. It runs fine on other occasions. Seems like it is not getting gas.I feel a grinding as I trun corners on dry pavement. I feel it in the seat but don't feel it in steering wheel. assume it is rear diff. Have 150K miles.I just purchased a 1995 Explorer with a Keyless Keypad Entry System. According the the Owner's Manual the original code is "taped to the computer module". A local dealer wants to charge me $80 to diagnostically retrieve the code. Where is the computer module located on this vehicle?I used a stetscope to narrow it down to the #6 cylinder I hear the noise more coming out of the intake manifold it is inconsistant and more rapit upon accelleration the noise ceases when I disconect the spark plug wire for that cylinder and starts back upon connection of the wire #6 cylinder
the plug is carbon filed I just replaced the heads w valve job and the liftersMy 4.0L Explorer surges when the RPM's are higher than idle. It will do this if you try to hold the RPM at any steady RPM for example 1500 in park. When you are driving it is most noticable when excelerating. I scanned it and replaced the EGR position sensor which cleared the check engine light. There was a memmory code 157 so I replaced the MAF sensor. I have replaced the TPS, CKS, IAC. I installed a fuel pressure guage and it holds steady at 30 psi, when I remove the pressure regulator vacum hose the pressure goes to 40 psi.Heating/cooling system was confused for a period of 4 to 6 months and finally the air conditioning would not come on. The local dealer diagnosed the problem as a faulty computer and estimated cost at 650.00. My question is : Is this an accurate diagnosis and if so; is this a repair that I can do?there is some kind of steam coming through the air con. vents it smell like radiator fluid. It will do it all the time unless you turn fan on to low if fan is off it seaps out of vents. When you initaly turn of fan it will blow it out then quit. when the vehicle is turned off the steam seaps out for a little while. If it is cold and you try and put the defrosters on heat it fogs up the inside of the winshield really bad and you can't get it to clear using defrost on hot or cold. Can't use heater either because it makes nothining but alot of white steam come out.I have a problem that affects my #3 spark plug (or cylinder) Every few thousand miles I have to bring it in to have the #3 plug changed. I would like to know which one is the #3 plug and how to get at it withoutripping apart the whole engine.Thanx plenty!!The blower was not working. Removed and bench tested OK. Replaced, then worked but only from defrost vents. Then quit again, no blower at all. Then during testing the light for rear defroster went out, still defrosts just no indicator light (next to heater control). Rear blower has worked through this whole thing. Ford says the blower motor is bad??? Works on bench test and sometimes runs.I have a coolant leak although it never drips water on the pavement I can see from under the vehicle the water is coming from the back of the engine it has 4.0 V-6 it is very small leak requiring additional coolant about once a month. I cannot determne where exactly it is coming from.My brake light stays on. It is located on my dashboard. When I apply my brakes it goes out. When I left off of my brakes, it comes back on.
Also, sometimes when I put my Explorer in reverse, it feels like it is isn't in gear. I have to put it back in park then back to reverse to get it to move. This has also happened a few times in drive. I came to a stop light and when I pushed on the gas it just sat there. Had to put it in park then back in drive. This has happened when the car is cold.i installed a k&n fipk and a helix throttle body spacer to my truck.the idle now runs low and stalls. i disconnected the neg terminal to reset the computer, not much help. should i clear the computer again?I have noise coming from engine area (metalic clacking)when transmission is in drive and at idle. Only happens when engine is warm. Noise goes away at about 1000 RPM. I have noticed some variation in oil pressure (intermittenly runs lower than normal reading. Normal pressure is slightly higer thatn mid point on gauge. When it varies, it drops to slightly below the mid point on the gauge. 1992 Explorer with 212, 000 miles. Engine does not burn any oil. Could this be an oil pump problem? Does engine have to be removed to change oil pump?I have a 1998 Ford Explorer, v6, 5-speed... The Temp guage is constantly going to the H side and the "check guage" light comes on. This problem just started. The heater is very hot. It's never really been that hot for quite some time. It will usually cool off if I can get the RPMs up over 2500 during idle. It will usually heat up if going up a slight incline and cool down if going down a decline. The top left hose to the radiator is extreamly hot, and the lower hose is extreamly cold. When I turned it off, I could hear a "gurgling" sound. I carefully released the pressure on the radiator and the water started flowing in the backup container. The water was only luke warm. Is this a sign of a stuck thermostat or something else? If it's the thermostat, is this something that I can easily replace? If so, will there be any lose of radiator coolant that will need to be replaced?Is there a TSB for the blower motor running after the key is turned off?I have a 1992 Ford Explorer. When the car is not warmed up it will not go into 1st or reverse. If I warm it up for 5-7 minutes and give it a little gas during the warm up it will go into gear. Witin the first few minutes if I have to stop at a light the car will not move but if I put my foot on the gas a little hard it will jump into gear. After the first initial few minutes I have this problem then the car fines fine. I was told I may just need to change my fluid and bands on the transmission. Praying I don't need a new tranny cause I hear it's expensive. what is an over haul? Will this cause plenty to have the over haul done. How much should I be looking to spend just to change the fliud and bands? What about hardened seals or a vacuum modulator. I'm a liitle chic trying to learn about big trucks. Your help is so appreciated. EMy 96 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 L OHV, Auto tranny and control Trac 4WD has a high frequency vibration that can be heard and felt in the seat and body any time the engine rpm is over 2000 and the engine is loaded. The frequency is about 50 to 100 hz and is independent of vehicle speed and occurs in any gear when accelerating OR even when stopped in drive with the brakes locked and the engine throttled up to 2500 rpm. There is no vibration when coasting at closed throttle in any gear. It is annoying. Also, and probably unrelated, the used car dealer I bought from just rebuilt the rear end before I bought it. I visually and hand inspected the front crankshaft pully/damper and it appears is good condition. All the motor mounts appear solid and the exhaust system is well sprung in rubber hangars. I do feel a slight "similiar" vibration in the engine while in park both with and without the serpentine belt in place, but I did not load the engine without the belt off. All the belt driven accessories appear smooth and balanced when rotated by hand. I'm stumpted.
Thanks-Jerry in Kingston, WAfuel pumpThe driver side low beam doesn't work. I first replaced the bulb with no change i then switched out the bulb from the other side and have the same problem. Both high beams work and the passanger low beam works. All other lights, instrumental panel lights, including the dimmer and auto sense. I replaced the switch a few months back that is in the turn signal column. And i tested this new switch and it works fine according to the ford sevice repair cd that i have. Fuses check out fine ... bypass all wiring and the light the works on high and low... can't figure out where to check now.... any advice would be of great helpThe digital thermometer located on the interior roof of the car constantly registers 0 degrees C. When you press the button three times, it will shift to this mode twice and then off. It should switch to this mode (celsius), then farenheight and then off, and of course, read a temperature each time. I replaced the module with 3 separate one's from a junkyard, and it repeated the same problem each time. It can't be the fuse, cause the module does in fact light up. The compass part on the module works fine and correctly displays the direction that you're going in.Over Drive light blinks since engine was cleanedOverdrive light on dash keeps blinking on "overdrive-off", and overdrive seems to not be on.where is the starter motor?