Ranger Pick up Car Answers
recently since cold weather truck has started ocasionaly backfire while trying to accelerate quickly.replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.did not help.also when cold out temp gauge barely comes off cold.(but blows luke warm air)also on the way home this evening couldnt stop engine from idling up to 2000 rpm at traffic lights.(1st time its ever done this)1992 ranger 2.9 liter 5speed manual 4*4.noticed all promblems at a outside temp of 30degrees or lowerI have a 93 Ford Ranger XLT. I have the 3.0L engine with a distributor. I am at a loss. I am getting no spark from the coil.
Here's what I know:
- I am getting good supply voltage to the coil, BUY when using a LED probe, I am not getting the expected blinking.
- I have taken the ECM into a car parts store and it checked out good.
- I am getting blinking on the PIP & SPOUT check points on the plug-in to the ECM, which according to a repair manual that I have says that the ECM and the Stator are both good.Why cant i get any spark to the plugs? I replaced all the parts i could that would effect it but the ECCWhen I hook up the positive wire to the battery, the starter engages and draws power from the battery and it stays on even when the iginition is off. The starter will not stop. I have replaced the solenoid and this is the 3rd starter since I first started having this problem.Hello again. ? Claudia here...You were helping me with my '90Ranger. I did some of the pinpoint tests...those I could do alone. One test seems to indicate a short in the harness of the crank shaft position sensor. I also replaced the ECU which seemed to be toast, and the Right side coil pack and spark plug wires. Alas, the symptoms prevail. The strange thing is, if the harness is shorted, why does the truck start and run beautifully for 30 or so seconds, then quit, and not start again for 48 hours, then after a long rest, it usually will start again, once...the pattern is start after sitting a long time. Then not start again. It seems to die for lack of fuel, rather than loss of spark. The fuel filter was replaced during this broken down spell, and the fuel pump was relatively new, replaced in 2001. The inertial switch tests okay. As does the DIS. Would the crank sensor harness short act like this? Oh and there are NO CODES! She just doesn't run! Any ideas? I dread the dismantling of the front of the engine to get to that harness, but I fear that is next.
ClaudiaFuel injected 4-cylinder version. Will not start and stay running unless accelerator is on the floor and once it starts it needs to run at high rpm for a bit to keep running. It drives fine and idles fine. The problem is just at start-up. Makes no difference if it's cold or hot. I already changed the fuel filter, no difference.I have a 1992 Ranger with a 2.3L 4 cyl w/ 5 speed manual transmission (Mazda). The tranny failed, and I found a tranny from a 1997. Is the only difference that the newer one has an electronic speedometer? If so, can I change the tailshaft and still use my mechanical speedo?
Thanx for your help
wiggeyHave a 1987 Ford ranger super cab with new 2.9 liter V6 engine. The engine was rebuilt with all new parts and includes fuel injectors fuel pumps tank and intenal engine parts. However, when trying to start new engine the engine turns over but will not fire. If starting fluid is used the engine will start. Both fuel pumps and relay have been replaced. The inertia switch has been checked. I have power to the fuel pump relay with still no power to the pumps. Does the igntion module provide the trigger power to the relay to power to pumps? Or if you can provide any further steps i maight have missed.Engine has a code po306 miss in number six cylinder?
I just replace the drivers side head, it was cracked in the number 4 cylinder. I have checked the spark wire and spark plug, seems to have good compression, but I don't have an adapter for my compression gauge. What is the next easiest test, I can perform? Any ideas? Injector?When truck starts dome light will not go off and bell bings for 2-3 min after started and now when truck is off dome light will not go off after door is shutengine just quit while driving. Fuel pump wasn't working, so I wired 12 volts directly to it and it worked fine, i replaced it anyway. I bypassed the inertia switch and replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuses. I have continuous 12 volts to the relay and another 12 volts when I turn the key on, but coming out of the relay i only have 6 volts, also only 6 volts on the fuel pump. Any ideas, I'm stumped!Instrument Cluster Lights and AC control lights went out. Fuses check good. Dome/courtesy lights still work. Headlights/tailights/blinkers etc. still work.
Don't know if it matters...dome light has been staying on a long time afer shutting truck down and sometimes even when driving...usually on hot days.
Any ideas where to start? Any "modules" that should be checked/replaced?
BobK2000 ford ranger 4 cylinder odometer speedometer cruise control all dead check engine lite on abs lite on truck stalls when ac is put on computer says speed control sensor were is that located?>
thank youI'm not getting full voltage to the glow plugs when the ignition is on or while cranking. I get full voltage for a couple of seconds, then it falls to 0v. According to the Chilton's manual I have, I should be getting full voltage for 3 seconds, then about 4v, and intermittant full volatge while cranking. Is what's in the Chilton's manual true, or am I "barking up the wrong tree"?My heater now has only 3 settings...
2) MAX A/C
3) All other settings result in Heat!!!! Even the A/C setting that is not MAX A/C.
All the appropriate redirection of the air flow works OK. That knob setting does direct the air flow where it says, ie. windshield, floor, dash or any of the combination settings, all work. It is the temp that is either HOT or COLD, and only cold in the MAX A/C position.It recently turned cold enough to run the defroster and heater in my 1994 Ford Ranger P/U. Soon, after running the heating system for the first time, I noticed a really bad smell. At first, I thought that the radiator was overheating, but the guage read fine and the water level was OK. Perhaps a week later the smell got worse, but the gauge continued to read fine and the water level was OK. Then I noticed that the defroster was no longer clearing the frost on the windshield. And I couldn't clean the glass because there was a thin film on the windwhield. Then, I noticed what appeared to be "smoke" coming from the heater/AC vents. I looked under the hood, but didn't see anything out of the ordinary. The smell and "smoke" got worse over the next several days. The smell was horrible - just like an overheating radiator - only much worse. I decided to see what would happen if I turned everything off - heater, defroster, fan, vents, etc. When I did that, the "smoke" BILLOWED out of the vents!!! I'm in the south and we can use the heater and AC in the same day...It still stinks when I run the AC, but there is only a tiny bit of smoke....What could be wrong with my truck and am I killing myself by driving it?When I start the motor cold it doesn't have the fast idle, I've to pump the gas to start it. what would be the problem. MY truck has a 191, 000 miles on it.The problem I am having is after the truck is warm and sitting for awhile, like at a long red light, when accelerating, suddenly the truck will stall.The rpm gauge will go to zero, but as soon as I let off the gas, the gauge will jump back up to normal.Sometimes the truck will just quit running, it then will not start.But after sitting for a minute or two it will start up and run just fine.Any ideas on where I should start looking?Fuses good, (in the fuse boxes), can't find shorting bar. coils good, ecm good(new), Hall sensor good, "no spark at intake coil, a little at exhaust coil??????????????my ranger started overeating. a friend said i had a hose leak. he put coolant in it and said it would be simple to fix the hose but keep coolant in it until he could fix it. was driving when started overheating again and the oil needle started jumping up and down. had just pt oil in it. white smoke was coming out of the tailpipe. pulled into a driveway and turned it off. now it won't start. it sounds like it is going to start fine then just die suddenly.Most of the time, after about an hour on the freeway my truck will lose power and bog down. If I push the gas pedal to the floor it will recover until I let up and try to maintain speed between 45 and 75 with a light throttle. Doesn't happen around town at all. THanks J.The temperature control does not work. I get hot air no matter where I move the selector. Even with the a/c selected I get hot air regardless of where I move the temperature control knob. Any ideas what the problem might be and how to fix it would be appreciated. Thanks. Rob SturgessI need to change the timing belt on my ford ranger. it is a 1989-Ford ranger 2.3 L H N Would you please send me a Valve timing schamatic to mye=mail address
lightbulbartist, Thank you.
GeorgeWhere is the jack position to change a right rear tire?I think I have a ignition problem.When the truck is ideling there is a slight shudder or hesitation.When driving there is no power on accelerationand the engine runs rough.The fuel pump is new, fuel pressure is fine.The plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor button are all new.Could it be the coil?If it is, how do I check it.The manual I have does not give any specs for 1990 model.Could it be a compression problem? The truck has 216, 000 miles.Also, I replaced the fuel injectors about 15, 000 miles ago.Also, when holding a piece of paper over the exhaust, it makes an intermitent popping noise.My heating and cooling system have failed. I have power to the blower and the ventilation controls are working. It directs air to the defroster or the panel vents. Indicating the vacum lines are operating the doors. The AC compressor does not kickin regardless of the postion of the temp control, or there is not heat when the temp control is rotated full hot. I checked the vacum line at the heater control valve on the supply lines the the heater core and there is no vacum, but the lines do feel hot as if water is circulating through the core.
Both systems (heat and AC)failed at the same time.
Mac Butlerno o2 sensor data on scan tool shows 0 of 3
checked fuses ok. replaced front 2 o2 sensors
with motorcraft ones.no trouble codes but still
no data?I can't find the location of the ignition module on my 3.2 litre 1997 Ford Ranger. I want to have it tested. My truck just quit and won't restart. Fuel is ok.
Someone told me they used to be on the front of the intake manifold but it's not there.Sometimes when I am driving my truck will just shut off. if I wait a minute it will start right back up like nothing ever happend and run fine. Also when I am driving on the interstate It feels like there are small fluctuations in power but they are so small it feels like it could be wind but I doubt it strongly. For a little while I thought I was just running out of gas cause it kind of felt like that. It rarly shuts off but the power fluctuations happen more often. Also one time I took my truck through some really high water put it in second and slammed on teh gas and it eventually lost power and shut off but eventually started and regained its strength after about 1-2 minutes of sputtering. Could these problems of originated from getting water in soem of the engine parts??Truck was running great then pinged and stalled, would not restart. Towed it home.
After sitting overnight, will crank, start then stall, acts as if timing is advanced. Timing belt OK, we have fuel pressure at S. valve, fuel injection seems to work, replaced DIS igition module, have spark in one coil [above], 2nd coil on [lower] intake side gives nospark, replaced it, still no spark. Engine sounds great when it starts to run, revs and dies after few seconds. How do we do a test on the crank sensor? Any other ideas? All cables look okay. Any way to check those? Have an ohm meter. Thanks! ClaudiaMy Ranger pickup sometimes won't start after you drive for a while and turn it off, then when it cools off for a while it starts. It usually happens in very hot and humid days. One time it happened at a friend of mines house and I had the hood open. I tryed to start it and it seemed like it wasn't getting any fire or either fuel. I watched the sun going behind the house gradually until my engine was covered by shade. About 5 or 10 minutes later it started right up. I've given it a tune up: plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor and air filter. I was wondering if you have any idea what might be causing this problem.
Also, I was wondering if there is a place on the internet to find a diagram of my firing order? It's a 3.0 liter V-6 and has a miss in it and it didn't start missing until after I changed plugs and wires.
Marengo, OhioI drove it hauling my trailer with my four wheeler on it for 60 miles then later went to a friends and when i went to leave it would not start. there was a loud clicking noise when i turned the key and my friend said it was the solenoid that the battery cable goes too. the clicking did sound like it was coming from there. it's located on the passenger side pretty close to the battery. this happened before and when i went to tow it. it started right up. i'd like to get it fixed so it doesn't happen again.When it gets to 45 mph the transmission shifts very erradically with no extra gas pedal pressure.When I give it gas it shifts fine untill I maintain constant pressure then it starts to shift back and forth again.All fluid levels are fine.At first, I could unhook the battery overnight and then it would run fine.But the running fine periods got shorter and shorter and now dosen't help at all.need to find out were to line up timing marks on crank and cam